Do
you ever forget where you are for a second? I’m not talking about the
experience of being in a foreign bed and waking with a start in the middle of
the night, trying to find a patch of light so you can identify a cupboard or
picture that reminds you that you’re staying in a hotel or your Aunt’s spare
room.
I
mean the feeling where the scenery, smells, sounds, light, temperature and
hundreds of other various subtle elements combine to remind you of a place
you’ve visited or lived in before. These instances can be so detailed and
complete that you sometimes think you’re there, even if just for a second.
I
love this feeling. I embrace and nurture it. I want it to linger. (Especially
now that the type of travel I enjoyed in my 20s and early 30s is on hold until
I can convince my boy it’s safe to take Little Red to India, Nepal, Patagonia,
Jordan, Tunisia, Estonia, Latvia, Tibet and Guatamala. And that she’d love to
go down the Amazon in a boat, or visit the Mayan ruins or any other place I
have on my very long list.)
So
often now I am reminded of somewhere I’ve visited, be it the tropics in South
East Asia and the Pacific, the jungle and forests in South America, or the
suburban streets of England and America.
Early
some mornings I stand out on the deck and take a moment. I listen to the
neighbours’ chickens stirring. The air is still cool, but a little muggy, with
the promise of the heat to come. The haze in the sky dulls the light, and there
are threads of mist in the trees. It’s mostly quiet, with the occasional hum of
a car or voice or the cicadas’ call.
These
things remind me of India and I feel a pang of longing. Each morning of my stay
in Makaibari, I’d get up early with my host family. The eldest daughter would
bring me hot, sweet local tea, sometimes laced with ginger, knocking softly on
my bedroom door and leaving it on the coffee table. I’d go outside and stand on
the porch of their home to drink it, rugged up in my hoodie and trousers,
warming my hands on their best cup (that had a lid!) and inhaling the steam.
The air was still quite cool from the night, but there was a hint of the humid
warmth that would make the afternoon’s home clinic visits in surrounding
villages hot work. The air smelt of dust and dirt and leaves, spices and
incense, and sometimes a hint of rain.
My
host family lived half way up the hill upon which the village stood. From their
porch, I had clear views into their neighbours’ yards, and on clear days, I
could see past the prayer flags that flicked and flapped in the wind, into the
valley and across to the blue-grey mountains in the distance.
I
loved watching and listening to the village as it started its day. People
washed themselves and their dishes in pots with the precious water their
children had carried up from the spring in old plastic oil, petrol and soft
drink containers. Some ate breakfast on the concrete steps outside their doors.
They fed their dogs and cats scraps, absent-mindedly throwing food onto the
ground at their feet. Chickens ran free in the yards, bathing themselves in
dust and dirty water, and chattering happily among themselves. Some people
checked the tufts of green that filled their small vegetable plots, tugging at
strings that fastened stems to sticks in the ground.
The
sky had a constant haze, which gave the morning light a pearl grey tinge. By
lunch time, and with the aid of a breeze, this haze rose a little to allow more
sunlight and warmth through. But it was always there – as it was across all of
the India I’ve seen. Sadly this is indicative of the pollution that plagues the
country (and leaves visitors with a perpetually blocked nose and sinuses).
Behind
me, in the corridor inside the home, the family’s grandfather would say his
morning prayers. At dawn he lit incense and waved it around the doors, mumbling
what I imagined to be his hopes and wishes, and giving gratitude. He spoke no
English, but always gave me a warm smile and nod as I passed him on his way to
and from the village temple or his vegetable garden.
I
miss the peace of those mornings (and having someone bring me tea as soon as I
wake). Standing on the deck at home, with that certain light and cool,
listening to the chickens chatter and coo to one another, reminds me of that
simple, quiet time, the pause before the day busied and warmed.
Sometimes
I walk around our neighbourhood and am reminded of the suburbs in London in
Spring. The slow, gentle warming of the ground, still cool from winter. The
dense, leafy gardens shading heavy-set red brick homes, fence lines dotted with
rose bushes drooping slightly with the weight of their flowers. Daffodils
popping up randomly in the grass.
When
I swim laps at my local pool, I am taken back to the President Hotel in La Paz.
My boy and I holed up there for a day or two when one of our flights was
cancelled. To try to even out the plentiful Pisco Sours and Ecuadorean chocolate
I consumed, I did 100 laps of the 10-metre hotel pool, covered by a filthy
glass roof, where pigeons perched on the edge overlooking the city and rain
pitted the grime. Palms stood tall, browning, in pots in the corners of the
room. The tiles around the pool were cracked and their style so dated it was
almost new again. I can smell the thick chlorine and feel my annoyance with the
hairy-backed, big-bellied man who let his two boys jump and splash around us
without any consideration.
Other
times, the heavy humidity after a summer storm makes me think of the tropics,
of Thailand or Fiji or even the Amazon. The air smells moist and earthy, sweet
and floral. Droplets of water cling to the trees and bushes, and birds chirp
happily now the storm has passed, shaking water from their feathers. There’s a
strange feel of newness, of excitement and anticipation. It’s cooler, but ever
so sticky. And you start to perspire at the mere thought of walking. Light
filters through the clouds that are starting to break apart, and all of a
sudden you’re caught in a bright, warm ray that burns. And it’s hot.
These
moments keep me going when my feet get that familiar itchiness, when I get
restless and irritable, and my next trip seems so far in the future. They
remind me that I’m lucky to have these memories at all, to know what it’s like
to have been in those places and experienced those things. They remind me to be
grateful for the opportunities I’ve had, and the ones I will have in the
future. Because I’m sure there will be many more to come (just as soon as I
convince my boy that Little Red will love to travel as much as her mum does).
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